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Best thing to do:
Go to http://crucial.com and use their free memory scanner. that will tell you how much memory your laptop can handle. Then, you can buy it from there aswell.

Also, you havent laid out ANY information about the type of laptop, just that its an acer, which isnt helpful to anyone.

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I want to get new updated better RAM, but I dont know what I can use, I currently have tried RAM recomending software, but I want to be sure I can get the best.
I currently have a
Hardware Overview:

Model Name: iMac
Model Identifier: iMac10,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Processor Speed: 3.06 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 3 MB
Memory: 4 GB
Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version: IM101.00CC.B00

Current RAM is
Memory Slots:

ECC: Disabled

BANK 0/DIMM0:

Size: Empty
Type: Empty
Speed: Empty
Status: Empty
Manufacturer: Empty
Part Number: Empty
Serial Number: Empty

BANK 1/DIMM0:

Size: Empty
Type: Empty
Speed: Empty
Status: Empty
Manufacturer: Empty
Part Number: Empty
Serial Number: Empty

BANK 0/DIMM1:

Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR3
Speed: 1067 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x80AD
Part Number: 0x484D54313235533642465238432D47…
Serial Number: 0x24416576

BANK 1/DIMM1:

Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR3
Speed: 1067 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x80AD
Part Number: 0x484D54313235533642465238432D47…
Serial Number: 0x24716589

and I want to know
-Can I use different speed RAM (i.e. MHz)
-Can I use DDR2 DDR1 DDR5 or any other RAM type?
-Can I use single channel, dual channel, or triple channel RAM?

Please help I would really Appreciate it.

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I'm not an expert, but it doesn't seem to have anything different than most of the other G-series keyboards.

I have a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate mechanical keyboard ($130) and i thought that it was expensive. G19 is a crazy $200, and I can't see what the keyboard does that justifies that price. I can't tell the difference between the G15 and G19 feature-wise.

thanks

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Well.. Your memory is indecipherable. Your motherboard has 4 DIMM sockets but your components list rambles off more memory than could be in your system, so it's not informing accurately as for all I know you have 512MBs of memory (And this could be your serious problem) or you have 2GBs or memory. Your CPU should survive, it'd be slow but it shouldn't be lagging, but that depends on how you define those two terms. A distinct lack of -dedicated-graphics processing will greatly setback your graphical applications which're oftentimes tuned to make use of specialized capabilities of GPUs and their architecture. You do have the NVIDIA GeForce 6150 SE chipset though, or something very similar, which is why you're able to run League of Legends. This is an integrated graphics solution built into your motherboard. It has lots of extra features compared to a typical integrated graphics processor, but it's still an IGPU, and while it may be multiple times better than an Intel graphics solution, it's several times worse than any old graphics card, and that was when you got the system. Nowadays we're talking about a performance margin exponential of something like 20 times worse than any ole current video card. You do have a PCI Express slot though, so it's possible you can add a basic semi-modern graphics card which you could pickup second have for ~$50. Just make sure you have enough power delivery headroom from your PSU, along with the connections needed (if any) to support that video card. Again, don't forget to check the memory, if it's at 512MB's, that's entirely insufficient for anything modern. 2 gigabytes is the minimum to operate in this century if you do anything worthwhile and want it done the same day you started it.

Other than all that, if you're already planning on a new system build/purchase, don't sink more than about $10-20 per month, for every month you plan on continuing to use this system. If you're forced to live on it for another half year, for example, $20 in memory, and $40 in a video card would serve you well and keep you from pulling your hair out.

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My external HD (WD Passport) is installed and the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon shows on the tray, but not in My Computer. Help on how to access my drive pls.? :(

I've tried re-installing but it didn't work. I'm running on Windows 7, btw.

http://i56.tinypic.com/mhfvrp.png
The "Disk 1" with "unallocated" is my drive...

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Home >All Categories > Computers & Internet >Hardware >Laptops & Notebooks >Open Question Arjun Member since:February 05, 2011Total points:104 (Level 1)I'd just got the laptop today, and I'm kinda worried cuz I can't play any games using the mouse. =/
I Googled it up a bit, but couldn't yield anything yet.Answer Question

by 13wishes Member since:August 16, 2009Total points:417 (Level 2)There's a button at the top to the left of the power button. It has a hand pointing to something. Press it. The light should be off if the touch pad is activated.

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Home >All Categories > Computers & Internet >Hardware >Laptops & Notebooks >Open Question Ethan Smith Member since:June 09, 2011Total points:95 (Level 1)Whenever i press the arrow keys or the spacebar during online videogames the screen scrolls down! I hate it when that happens and it ruins my games. IT SUCKS and i dont know how to stop it! Please help!! ( by the way its a laptop computer ) -- R.A.O.Answer Question

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>The unfotunate part of it is the registry. Every time you install a program, keys get written to the registry and those keys point to a specific partition or area of the hard disk where those program files reside. If you moved them to a a different partition, the pointers in the registry wouldn't move with them. That is the problem of just moving all those programs to a protected partition like you are thinking about.

I think the best thing to do is do a clean install of the operating system. Reinstall all your software AGAIN! (yeah, I know you hate it)...and this time, BACK IT UP with backup software to an external USB backup hard disk. That way, you have an uncorrupted clean install copy (equivalent to a factory install) which you can revert to in case of corruption. What I would do is to burn this clean install of everything to a small hard disk and then take the hard disk out of the computer and store it in a clean, safe, protected place. That way, if you get corrupted again all you have to do is swap out hard disks. You could clone a copy of this to another hard disk which you will now use while having a back up copy in storage. What I am suggesting is not quite like a mirrored RAID configuration because a true mirrored RAID configuration writes a copy continuously to a mirrored hard disk. What I am talking about here is just having a clean install of the OS + all your software and then taking it out and storing it rather than having a continuously backed up mirrored RAID image.

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Home >All Categories > Computers & Internet >Hardware >Laptops & Notebooks >Open Question Timothy T Member since:January 03, 2008Total points:99 (Level 1)I have a DELL Studio 1555 that I bought about 2 years ago. I used to be able to charge the battery while using it, but now the little blue ring on the power cord turns off as soon as I power on the machine. It will charge as long as it’s turned off and the battery still holds a charge too. It just won’t charge while the laptop is on. I plugged it in without the battery and it works just fine, but I would like to be able to use it and charge the battery at the same time like I used to. Do you think I need a new power cord or what else could it be? Thanks, in advance for any insight you can provide.Answer Question

by Jack T Member since:October 26, 2009Total points:2,769 (Level 4)Yeah, it's probably the power cord. Try getting a new one, that'll fix the problem.

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Go to adobe and download the lastes Flash Player I think it's 10.1.2 or something like that, then find out the make and model of your soundcard and download the drivers from the manufacturers website.

Did you reinstall your operating system or something?

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A blinking green light on the motherboard can indicate either a power supply problem, or a memory problem. Depends on the model of the motherboard. It can also indicate that the ATX cable isn't properly seated on the motherboard (which would by default be a power supply problem, but is specific enough that I wanted to mention that).

If you've recently opened the case and fiddled around with the components, reopen the case and make sure all connectors are firmly seated and that any locking hasps are properly locked.

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Home >All Categories > Computers & Internet >Hardware >Laptops & Notebooks >Open Questiontengo una dell 1525 y e visto que en la lista de gente que le a cambiado el cpu mencionan
Intel® Core™2 Duo Mobile Processor T5800
Intel® Core™2 Duo Mobile Processor T5750
Intel® Core™2 Duo Mobile Processor T9300
Intel® Core™2 Duo Mobile Processor T9500
y e visto que el t 9500 tiene la misma estructura que el x9000 solo se diferencia por 200Mhz mas y ambos son800fsb osea se supone que lo aguante . le di el utimo update de bios ala laptop pero en ningun lugar encuentro lista de los cpu de support que aguanta. espero que puedan ayudarme con esa pregunta...Answer Question

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Post the brand, model number and installed operating system when asking for help to get the best answer. Also helps to post the Installed Internet security program when asking about virus's etc.
Do you have the operating system recovery disc set made for your lap top ?
Go to start click control panel, click add/remove programs, scroll list to UniBlue and click it to high light, click remove, when finished close all windows, log off and restart the lap top and your done.
Or follow instructions ate below link.

How to Remove Uniblue Registry Booster: How to Remove Uniblue Registry Booster
http://www.ehow.com/how_5766115_remove-uniblue-registry-booster.html

Us old (*****) ones have to stick together and help each other.

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Warrenties usually last a few years so i would imagine so?
Try sending it back to where it came from to get it fixed and if they dont fix it, its not?

Goood luck :)

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Home >All Categories > Computers & Internet >Hardware >Desktops >Open QuestionI just got home from school today, and to do some schoolwork etc. I hopped on my Mac desktop computer, which is connected to my home wifi network. When it turned on, everything went smoothly, but an error came up saying that I had reset my time to a date prior to 2008, and some applications could act "erratically." My clock had been reset to December 21st, 2000, and remember, I had been at school all day, no one was in my house who could have reset it, so idk how that happened. Then, a bunch of these weird windows opened asking for my permission to allow these applications internet access or something along those lines. They weren't normal apps, like Firefox or something either. They went something like kDr9274 or something, weird names, and when I searched for them in the Spotlight, it couldn't find them. I clicked allow, and they went away. Also, my internet connection was disabled, and I had to rejoin my wi-fi network. When I turned on the computer, it asked if I would like to set some other network as my home network, when I had clearly set my home network almost a year ago. The network it wanted to add was one that isn't listed under the connectable wifi networks that my computer lists, either. I have no idea what happened, and so far nothing else has gone wrong or acted funny. I did change my date and time back to the correct settings as well. What happened? Should I be worried about my computer security? Thanks for providing some insight on this weird situation, thanks!Answer Question

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